Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota
Forest
including
Gunbower Island Nature Reserve
Located alongside
the Murray River downstream of Torrumbarry, the Gunbower Koondrook Perricoota
Forest straddles the Victoria-NSW border and covers about 50,000 hectares.
The 'Forest' includes several lakes, wetlands and sand hills. At the
Torrumbarry end of the forest, away from the waterways, Black Box and
Grey Box are the dominant trees, with Grey Box dominating on slightly
higher, less flood-prone land to the north. But Red Gum is the dominant
tree around wetlands, along the rivers and over much of the remainder
of the forest. In NSW, the eastern half of the forest is called Perricoota
Forest. Further west, it is called Koondrook Forest. In Victoria, between
the Murray River and Gunbower Creek, the forest is called Gunbower Island
Forest. The town of Koondrook is actually in Victoria whilst its twin
town Barham (as distinct from Barmah!) is on the NSW side of the Murray
River.

Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota
Forest

The
Living Murray
initiative lists this forest as one of six icon sites in the Murray-Darling
Basin to be protected for their ecological significance. One icon site
(or Significant Environmental Asset) is Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota
Forest.
The other
Living Murray icon sites are
* Barmah-Millewa Forest
* Hattah Lakes
* Chowilla Floodplain, Lindsay and Wallpolla Island
* The Coorong, lower lakes and river mouth, and
* the Murray River channel itself.
Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota
is a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention,
JAMBA (Japan-Australia Migratory Bird Agreement) and CAMBA (China-Australia
Migratory Bird Agreement). It is an important breeding ground for a
number of birds, including Yellow-billed Spoonbill, Nankeen Night Heron,
Royal Spoonbill, Intermediate Egret, Great Egret and Australian White
Ibis.
The Forest
provides habitat for numerous threatened plant and animal species, including
birds, fish and reptiles, and supports colonies of breeding waterbirds
during appropriate seasonal conditions.
As far as
this forest is concerned, The Living Murray initiative aims to
enhance forest fish and wildlife values, ensure successful breeding
of thousands of colonial waterbirds in at least three years in ten,
promote healthy vegetation in at least 30% of the area of the forest
(including much of the flood-dependant River Red Gum forest) and at
least 80% of the wetlands, and increase native fish populations
Because of
irrigation, natural river flow patterns differ from those which existed
pre-European settlement. Gunbower Creek and the Murray River now flow
at higher levels throughout summer, whilst winter-spring floods are
usually neither as deep nor as prolonged. The forest is immediately
downstream of Torrumbarry Weir.
Environmental
water was released into some of the wetlands in May 2008.

Black Swamp,
Gunbower Island, June 2008 (K Stockwell)
Management of the forest is in the
hands of the Murray CMA (NSW) and the North Central CMA (Victoria),
each of which has appointed a site manager. The site managers take it
in turns to act as chief site manager. They are assisted by a project
officer and by a number of advisory committees, one of which is a Co-ordinating
Committee. There is a Community Reference Group to advise the Co-ordinating
Committee and a committee of indigenous (Koori) persons.
The CRG comprises a representative
from each of the two CMAs, five 'community' representatives and a project
officer (Anna Flanagan).
In attempt
to restore a natural flooding and drying regime to the forest, a number
of environmental works and measures have been completed or are planned.
A number of regulators have been constructed along Gunbower Creek, the
Murray River and other streams in order to keep water out of the wetlands
for much of the year.
Under The
Living Murray initiative, it is hoped that environmental water is
to be released from time to time to help conserve the wetlands and promote
breeding by water birds.
It is hoped
that permanent (sic) wetlands will contain water for between nine and
twelve months each year. Such wetlands occupy a relatively small area
of the forest, e.g. Reedy Lagoon, Green Swamp. Reedy Lagoon is regarded
as one of the healthiest and best wetlands along the Murray; it contains
relatively few weeds.
Semi-permanent
wetlands should contain water for between five and ten months at least
six years in every 10.
It is hoped
that areas of Red Gum with a flood-dependant under-storey can receive
water for around four months at least seven years in every 10. The environmental
water release of May 2008 is a step in the right direction.
Temporary
wetlands should occasionally receive water for between one and nine
months.
As environmental
water is scarce, only some of the regulators are opened for a few days
over Spring to allow certain areas to flood. To enable native fish to
move up and down river, fish ladders have been installed at obstacles
such as Torrumbarry Weir where traps have been installed to catch the
introduced European Carp, a fish which increases river turbidity and
competes with native fish. It has been found that carp swim higher in
the water than native fish. Most native fish escape being caught by
swimming under the trap. Some captured carp are used in the production
of garden fertiliser. Some of the regulators have been fitted with screens
to prevent the passage of adult carp but which allow access by smaller
native fish.
A new regulator
on Little Gunbower Creek was completed in 2007 to allow authorities
to divert environmental water into Black Swamp and to keep water out
at other times. This was one of the first structures to be constructed
under 'The Living Murray' programme. The new regulator on Little Gunbower
Creek was copened for the first time in May 2008 to allow flooding of
wetlands which had been dry for well over a year.

Little
Gunbower Creek in flood, June 2008 (K Stockwell)
Unfortunately,
much of this perennial wetland was not flooded for several years, during
which time thousands of saplings were able to survive. Previously, flood
waters drowned and killed young saplings. The regulator is closed most
of the time, preventing creek water from entering the wetland, allowing
the wetland to dry out.
Black
Swamp (K Stockwell)
Whilst the
forest and its wetlands attract lots of tourists and brings money into
the region, there's another benefit: the wetlands are habitat for large
numbers of ibis which each day travel to surrounding farms, preying
on insect pests that feed on crops and pastures. At night, large numbers
of bats leave the forest in search of insects, supplementing the work
of the ibis.
Gunbower
Island
Gulpa
Island lies between an anabranch of the Murray River (Gunbower Creek)
and the Murray River and occupies an area of 24,600ha. Much of the south-western
side has been cleared for farming. There is 17,500ha of State Forest,
10,000 ha of wetland and a 2,100ha nature reserve (most of which is
between River Track and the Murray River).
One of VEAC's
draft recommendations is for part of Gunbower Island to become a national
park. Logging will continue to be allowed in much of the forest near
Barham-Koondrook.
Gunbower
Island supports 8% of Victoria's freshwater meadows. Four of eight wetland
vegetation types are represented.
Gunbower
Island Road runs alongside Gunbower Creek from Cohuna, where it can
be accessed from the main town roundabout, south-east toward Torrumbarry,
where it can be accessed from the Murray Valley Highway (B400) via Burkes
Bridge. One side of the sealed Island Road is farmland; Gunbower Creek
runs roughly parallel on the other side. Several tracks lead from Island
Road into the forest.
A pamphlet on forest walks and drives
in Gunbower State Forest is available from the Department of Sustainability
and Environment. The NSW topographic map, Keely 1:50,000 covers much
of the island, which is in Victoria.
If entering the forest on Island
Road, it is recommended that you take Mawsons Road/Garner Break to where
this track meets Chettle Track. In this vicinity is a huge red gum,one
of the largest and oldest in the forest. East of the huge tree is a
cormorant rookery. This area is often flooded and inaccessible. The
forest drive outlined in the pamphlet is excellent but can only be completed
in dry weather, e.g. in autumn. Allow several hours for the drive.
Download Campaspe
Shire's pdf brochure: Gunbower
Island Forest Drive
If you enter
the forest from Koondrook, a good spot is Clump Bend. Look in the Dwarf
Cherry for Gilbert Whistler. Grey-crowned babblers have roosts here.
For those who prefer paddling to
driving, there is a marked canoe trail. A brtochure on the canoe trail
is available from the DSE office in Cohuna.
There are no formal walking tracks
on the island but, in places away from wetlands, the open nature of
the forest allows for pleasant bushwalking using a compass and a topographic
map.
See notes
in the left column re access points.

Red-bellied
Black Snake: often seen on Gunbower Island (D Ong)
Like The Narrows of the Murray River, Gunbower
Creek is a perched stream, slightly higher than the land either side.
it is contained by natural levees. There is some concern that the creek
may abandon its present course as it is silting up rather quickly.
Frequent flooding enabled a red
gum forest and wetlands to be be created. Local rainfall alone cannot
support the forest.
Murray
River, Gunbower Island (K Stockwell)
The main vegetation type is red
gum forest (Eucalyptus camaldulensis), especially in the low-lying
north-west section. It is part of Australia's second-largest Redgum
forest, after the Barmah-Millewa Forest upstream. Red Gum depends upon
flooding for regeneration and survival. Black Box (Eucalyptus largiflorens)
and Grey Box (E. microcarpa) cover the higher ground in the south-west.
Whilst Black Box can withstand a few weeks of flooding every so often,
Grey Box prefers even higher ground which either does not flood or which
floods occasionally for short periods only. When
the floodwaters drain and evaporate, the forest floor is covered by
herbs, grasses and sedges. Wildflowers include Paper Daisies (Everlastings).
Reeds and rushes
grow in swampy areas. Warrego Grass and Wallaby Grass (Danthonia spp)
grow on higher ground. Red Azolla sometimes floats on the water. Black
Box occupies land that is slightly higher and less prone to lengthy
flooding.
Dwarf Native Cherry (Exocarpus
strictus) and wattles grow under the Red Gum.
The forestry
industry is important, particularly to the nearby twin town of Barham (NSW)-Koondrook (Victoria) where
there are furniture factories, a veneer plant and several saw mills.
Showrooms in Koondrook are open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Arbuthnot
Sawmills sometimes offer mill tours.
Clearfelling is not
practised. Habitat trees are left in each coup. Logging is not permitted
close to waterways.
Much of the
island is in a degraded condition (e.g. lots of ugly stumps, loss of
middle layer) due to forestry activities. Some parts are in relatively
good condition, e.g. Wattle Creek along Wee Wee Rup Road. Reedy Lagoon
has been fenced to protect bird habitat.
Bird observers
may wish to check out some reasonably good wetland areas along Gunbower
Creek (eastern end of Island Road) as well as following the two tours
outlined in the Birding
Guide to Cohuna area and Gunbower Island.
Camping is
permitted in the State Forest and near Torrumbarry Weir. Accommodation
is available nearby, e.g. In Cohuna and at the Gunbower Hotel.
If a national
park is declared, it is proposed that camp fires, logging and commercial
grazing not be allowed. The forest has not been grazed for some time
and an area is to be retained outside of the proposed park for logging.
Camping, four-wheel driving, fishing, bird-watching, bush-walking etc
will be unaffected and no entry fee is proposed.
Reference
maps: Keely 1:50,000 (Central Mapping Authority of New South Wales);
Region 20 CFA Rural Directory maps 217, 218, 192, 193
See also Big
Ben's Victoria: Gunbower
Download Parks
Victoria's guide to Gunbower area: http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/resources05/05_1835.pdf
Download a pdf
birding brochure Birding
Guide to Cohuna area and Gunbower Island
Perricoota-Koondrook
Forest
The
Red Gum forest on the NSW side of the Murray, downstream of Echuca and
opposite Gunbower Island, is called Perricoota Forest in the south-east
near Moama and Koondrook Forest further downstream near Barham - Koondrook. Part of Australia's
second largest Red Gum forest, it is one of six sites of ecological
significance under the Living Murray initiative.
The forest
has been logged over many decades. Box trees are found on the higher
areas. Access is from Perricoota Road. It is possible to enter the forest
near Womboota (turn left off perricoota road at the Perricoota Woolshed
and follow signs to the forest) and drive alongside the river all the
way to the outskirts of Barham and return via Lower Thule Road, Perricoota
Road or via Koondrook and the Murray Valley Highway (Vic). This forest
is inaccessible to vehicles after rain or during flood times. Apart
from foresters, most who visit are water-skiers, anglers or boaters,
many of whom launch their craft at Torrumbarry. There are some delightful
bush camping sites with beaches alongside the Murray River (no facilities).
The best time to visit is usually between December and April. Fires
are not permitted for most of the year.
Accommodation
is available in Echuca-Moama and Barham-Koondrook.
The Gunbower
and Koondrook-Perricoota Forests have a combined area of about 50,000
hectares. The Koondrook and Perricoota Forests are included in the NSW
Central Murray State Forests Ramsar site. It is an important breeding
area for colonial waterbirds and is visited by migratory birds listed
under international treaties with Japan (JAMBA) and China (CAMBA). Interim
objectives and outcomes for actions under the First Step of the Living
Murray initiative is to maintain and restore a mosaic of healthy floodplain
communities, ensuring 80% of permanent and semi-permanent wetlands remains
in healthy condition, 30% of River Red Gum forest remains in healthy
condition, that successful breeding of thousands of colonial waterbirds
occurs in at least three years in ten and that there are healthy populations
of resident native fish in wetlands
One of the
most attractive parts of this forest is in the vicinity of Kate Malone
Bend, where there is a varied under-storey and where fields of everlastings
carpet the forest floor following good rains or floods. At times, everlastings
carpet the forest floor from here for many kilometres westwards toward
Koondrook. This area is ideal for bushwalking and there are secluded
camping sites alongside the Murray. Some riverside camp sites have beaches.
East of Kate Malone Bend is an area of regenerating Box, with lots of
stumps and regrowth from stumps, which lacks a middle storey or under-storey
and which may lack aesthetic appeal. Black Box grows on land which floods
only occasionally for a short time whereas Grey Box prefers higher and
drier land. There are small areas where Yellow Box is dominant and native
Callitris Pine is the dominant tree on some sand hills.
There are
several wetland areas, most of which have been deprived of water over
recent years. It is hoped to release environmental water to flood these
areas from time to time, thereby promoting the breeding of waterbirds.
Regulators are being upgraded and additional regulators are to be constructed.
32,000 megalitres
has been set aside for wetlands on the NSW side of the Murray River.
There is a wetlands working group which helps determine the wetlands
to which the environmental water is to be directed. Private wetlands
may be entitled to some of this water. Unfortunately, unlike the case
with Barmah-Millewa, it seems that this water allocation cannot be held
over from year to year. Nor can it be lent to irrigators to be paid
back later.
Red Gums is important to the timber
industry of the nearby town of Barham-Koondrook. Better quality timber
is used in the production of fine Red Gum furniture and veneer. Poor
quality timber and residues are used for firewood. About 200 make a
living directly or indirectly from the industry, a substantial proportion
of the population of Barham-Koondrook.
Under natural
conditions, there would be fewer and larger Red Gum trees in the forest
(the weakest saplings died as they failed to compete with stronger ones).
As a result of man's interference, trees grow more closely together.
Therefore, thinning is needed if good timber trees are to develop. Thinning
allows crowns to grow wider and a taller, stronger tree is likely. Regional
foresters have decided to thin sections of this forest, something which
can only be funded whilst firewood prices are favourable. Forestry NSW
claims that:
- dead trees
are left alone except in a few instances where they appear to be very
dangerous;
- in logging
coupes, two habitat trees are identified per hectare and protected;
- in logging
coupes, two replacement habitat trees are identified per hectare and
left to develop hollows;
- in logging
coupes, a few trees vigorous are selected and set aside for future
logging;
- smaller
and less vigorous red gums are logged; residues will henceforth be
taken for "green firewood" and not left on the forest floor;
- stumps
are being cut as close to the ground as possible;
- no logging
is to occur within 60 metres of water courses or on sandhills;
- box and
native pine are no longer being logged at all;
- areas
with a rich middle storey are left unlogged or logged in such a way
as to protect the middle storey as well as possible (this may involve
leaving part of the area unlogged).
About 20
to 25 years after being logged, the area will be inspected again and
further thinning (e.g. of regrowth from stumps) may be carried out.
An aim is to have more very large red gums in the forest. Most trees
of an area are often of similar age; the smaller trees may not be younger
but less vigorous, the ones which would die out over time as a result
of natural selection. A plan of irrigating much of Koondrook Forest
by way of a yet-to-be-constructed channel is possible.
Some claim
that overlogging is still occurring and that some of the above 'rules'
are being breached.
Another aim
of the managers is to use cattle to help control weeds whilst, at the
same time, promoting local grasses and herbs. This means removing stock
when native grasses are about to flower but introducing stock to areas
of weeds at certain times of the year. On the NSW side of the Murray,
stocking rates are considerably lower now and more discretion has been
given to the regional forester.
The Big
Bonum Sandhill has been fenced to exclude cattle, vehicles (including
trail bikes) and pest animals. Direct seeding has been undertaken in
an attempt to create a vegetation community typical of pre-European
days. Special emphasis was given to locally endangered plant species
which once grew on sandhills. However, there is presently no evidence
of shrubs in the fenced area.
There is
some concern at the growth of the semi-parasitic Dwarf Cherry in places,
especially alongside the Murray, but this is an aesthetically pleasing
shrub which is very important shrub to birds, providing both protection
and food.
There are
smaller State Forest reserves (Guttram Vic and Campbells Island NSW)
just downstream of Barham-Koondrook (see below).
A chief site
manager has been appointed to oversee the management of this environmentally
significant asset. There is a site manager for the Koondrook-Perricoota
Forest (who takes it in turns with the site manager for Gunbower Island
to be chief site manager). The site mangers are assisted by a cross-border
Coordinating Committee, a cross-border Citizens Reference Group (Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota
CRG) and traditional (indigenous) landholders. As far as the NSW section
of the forest is concerned, they work in conjunction with the Murray
Catchment Management Authority and Forestry NSW.
Reference
maps: Keely 1:50,000 (Central Mapping Authority of New South Wales);
Region 20 CFA Rural Directory maps 217, 218, 192, 193.
Download a pdf
Birding/Driving brochure Birding
spots of Perricoota Road and Perricoota Forest
Campbells
Island State Forest
Campbells Island SF lies north-west of Barham, the western end of Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota
Forest. The wetland is called Guttrum Forest on the Victorian side of
the Murray. See
CFA (Vic) Region 20 Rural Directory Map 192 grid reference 360 590.
Guttrum
State Forest
Guttrum is a red gum wetland in Victoria north-west of Barham. Access
via Miller Road (which runs off Murrabit Road). The wetland is called
Campbell Island SF in NSW. CFA Region 20 Rural Directory Map 192 350
380.
Red
Gum Swamp Wildlife Reserve
Red Gum Swamp Wildlife Reserve is a 148 hectare wetland containing saltbush,
lignum and dead river red gums located south-west of Koondrook.
Cattle
Cattle
licences permit cattle to be grazed for a period of six months in certain
areas. The forest is then rested for a period of six months.
The VEAC
report discusses the impact of cattle on the forest.
The forest on the NSW side of the
Murray is divided into sections. Over winter, cattle may be allowed
in areas where introduced grasses can be targeted. Cattle grazing may
be allowed on higher sections of the forest, where they are unlikely
to damage boggy wetlands, during summer. There are also exclosures in
which cattle are not normally permitted. Some of these areas are wetlands.
As flood waters recede, cattle can cause cause soil and vegetation damage
(pugging) in wetlands. Sometimes, some cattle may be used in these for
a short period to help control weeds. Forest administrators follow the
guidelines set out in a document titled Riverina Grazing Strategy, copies
of which can be obtained through Forestry NSW (a division of the NSW
Department of Primary Industries).
Some of the exclosures are areas
which have been fenced to protect certain plants (e.g. Banksia)
or animals (e.g. Gilbert Whistler). As is the case with cattle, logging
and vehicles are not normally permitted in exclosures.
In Victoria, cattle are removed
from the forest in autumn. 'The Barmah Muster' attracts many tourists.
Some argue
that the cattle reduce the "fuel" on the forest floor and
lessen the danger of fires. But cattle cause damage. Major damage occurs
on sand ridges where cattle not only prevent the regeneration of banksias,
hop bushes and wattles but may destroy the nesting tunnels of Rainbow
Bee-eaters. They also cause problems in reed bed swamps, pugging the
soil, reducing the vegetation cover and eating the palatable reeds which
protect river banks. They leave less-palatable species such as Giant
Rush (Juncus ingens) which is taking over some areas.
In places,
cattle damage the river banks. There is a growing realisation that cattle
should be excluded from such areas and, in places, fencing has been
erected to protect sensitive areas, e.g. on sandy areas along Picnic
Point Road, along Millewa (Aratula) Road, along Tea Tree Road and along
Langmans Road in Gulpa Island. Since the Reed Beds and Moira Lake have
been fenced off, there has been a significant improvement in vegetation
cover and diversity, with some uncommon plants becoming more common.
The number
of cattle which can be grazed under lease has been reduced significantly
over recent years and more power has been given to land managers. By
early 2008, because of drought, all cattle had been taken out of the
forest.

Cattle
alongside the Murray River (K Stockwell)

Supporters
of cattle grazing staging a protest (N Roberts)
Some argue
that a cost-benefit analysis should be undertaken, comparing the benefits
from grazing (income from license fees, weed control, etc) with the
costs (increase in non-palatable grasses, reduction in incidence of
palatable species, reduction in the diversity of vegetation, pugging,
administrative costs, damage to river banks, spread of weeds, etc).
Forestry
Forestry
directly and indirectly employs hundreds of people, especially in the
Barmah-Koondrook area. Value-adding is becoming increasingly important
and magnificent furniture is being made from red gum. An expensive laminating
plant has been installed at Barham. Red Gum veneer can be used for flooring
and wall panels as well as for table tops and in furniture construction.
Fine quality red gum furniture is sold in Koondrook and in Echuca.
A Forest
Forum is held in Barham-Koondrook each year. Visitors are able to view
examples of fine furniture and tour some of the mills.
Although
it is claimed that logging is becoming increasingly conservative, the
extent of logging seems to have been cranked up a few notches over recent
years.
Old trees
unsuitable for forestry are no longer being ring barked: in fact, habitat
trees are retained in forestry coups. Foresters claim that only a small
percentage of the forest is logged each year (there is a 20-year cycle)
and only a fraction of the trees (as low as 20%) in each coupe are logged.
Some claim
that over-logging is still occurring. The possibility that the Victorian
Government is to order hundreds of thousands of wooden railway sleepers
has outraged some environmentalists who claim that the use of longer-lasting
concrete railway sleepers would have less impact on greenhouse gas emissions.
Red Gum is
susceptible to fire, relying on flooding for regeneration.
Most of the
timber extracted from the forest is used for firewood or garden chips.
Much of the firewood and chips are produced from forest residues, from
thinning operations and from trees damaged by fire. Some are critical
of the amount of firewood taken from the forest. Most of the firewood
goes to Melbourne and provincial cities. Some argue that, because smoke
contaminates the atmosphere and adds to greenhouse gases, wood fires
should no longer be permitted. Smoke from wood fires causes some distress
in the neighbourhood, especially to those with respiratory problems.
Gas fires cause less greenhouse pollution and are unlikely to diminish
the air quality of neighbours.
In order
to collect or cut wood from the forest, a permit is necessary. Two chaps
were recently fined around $3,600 for cutting firewood without a permit.
The law is rigorously enforced, rangers and police patrolling the forest
and manning entrance points at times.
In view of
the low annual average rainfall of this area, Red Gum requires periodic
flooding. Much of the forest has not received sufficient water over
recent years. In parts of the forest, the trees are stressed and therefore
subject to insect attack, placing their future value as timber trees
at risk. It is in the interest of foresters that all areas of the forest
receive 'floodwaters' from time to time.
Indigenous
occupants
Indigenous
people inhabited the area for thousands of years. Collectively, local
tribes form Yorta Yorta Nations.
Some cultural
or sacred sites have been fenced off, e.g. areas with middens (piles
of shells marking camping sites).
Some trees
bear evidence that a bark bowl (coolamon), bark shield or bark canoe
has been cut from them. Such trees are referred to as Coolamon Trees.
Indigenous
persons are involved in the administration of the forest.
Potential
threats to Gunbower-Koondrook-Perricoota Forest
Potential
threats include:
- inappropriate
water management (quality, frequency, season, duration)
- inappropriate
timber harvesting (e.g. clear-felling, removal of habitat trees, unsustainable
logging)
- inappropriate
grazing management (erosion of banks, changed vegetation mix, loss
of soil-vegetation cover, weeds)
- fires
(flooding reduces the fire danger; Red Gum is intolerant of fire)
- weeds
(e.g. Arrowhead, thistles)
- feral
animals (e.g. rabbits, brumbies, pigs)
- barriers
to fish movement
- barriers
to water movement